|
Post by dandelionwine on Jun 1, 2007 12:57:33 GMT -5
Greetings all.
I'm looking to start my first worm bin. I read Appelhof's book, built my bin, and am ready to buy some worms.
I picked out who I was going to buy them from and he's out of foetida but would substitute hortensis and the same price. He thinks they're better for vermicomposting. Anyone try hortensis? Any thoughts?
Thanks.
|
|
|
Post by tt on Jun 2, 2007 9:08:24 GMT -5
Both worms are good composters. The Euros are just a bigger worm. so they eat more. They like it a little wetter. i breed both. The reds seem to produce more egg caps but almost the same rate. Give or take a few days.
|
|
|
Post by Jay Blair on Jun 4, 2007 12:39:39 GMT -5
E.f. are also more tolerant of temperature extremes.
|
|
|
Post by dandelionwine on Jun 4, 2007 16:41:15 GMT -5
I just ordered some Eisenia Foetida (the guy said he just got them back in). Is there anyway I can make sure the are actually Eisenia Foetida?
Thanks!
|
|
|
Post by Jay Blair on Jun 7, 2007 22:43:04 GMT -5
Some suppliers have been known to intergrate Perionyx excavatus in with Eisenia fetida sold as E.f. only. While both are suitable for composting in the southern U.S. region (ag hardness zone 8 ). P.e, are more migratory and will die at temperatures below 45 degrees F.
When I want to ensure a bin seeding has only E.f. stock, I place the seed herd in the worm room fridge at 45 degrees for 16 to 24 hours.
While the P.e. die, the E.f. begin to hybernate and will cease to hybernate after removal from the cooler.
If you choose not to use the cooler kill check, P.e. flip flop more than E.f. when handled.
|
|